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You can use GS Neutral Disinfectant Cleaner, GS High Dilution Disinfectant 256, HDQ Neutral and Super HDQ Neutral.  Each is rated for aspergillus niger.

The first thing would be to kill the mildew with a disinfectant such as TnT, SparSan Q or TB-Cide Quat.  Presumably, the surfaces chosen for the bathroom walls are resistant to alkaline chemical cleaners.  Of course, it is always a good idea to test them in an inconspicuous spot first.  If the mildew stain remains after cleaning with one of these disinfectants, you may want to try a little RJ8 to bleach away the stain.  Again, test in an inconspicuous spot first.

Sani-T-10 is an algaecide at 1 - 50,000 dilution. A little goes a long way. Don't over treat the water or you may see foam from the fountain agitation.

Disinfectants kill 100% of the named microorganisms if it is used properly - diluted correctly with the proper dwell time. Sanitizers give a 99.99% kill when used correctly. This makes disinfectants stronger.

Clothesline Fresh Softener/Sanitizer is the answer. The product not only kills several organisms including staph, it also softens the clothes and leaves them feeling soft and smelling fresh.

Clean By Peroxy is NOT a disinfectant, therefore no kill claims, therefore no required contact time.

Two good ways to get the black stain from mold to go away on grout are RJ8 and Clean By Peroxy. They work in different ways, but both will bleach away the black stain.

You can help to control the growth of black mold with a number of our neutral quat disinfectants.  You will find this claim on HDQ Neutral, Super HDQ Neutral, GS Neutral Disinfectant, GS High Dilution Neutral Disinfectant, PSQ II, and TB-Cide Quat.

Norwalk-like viruses are killed by Diffense, Halt and TB-Cide Quat ready to use disinfectant. This microorganism is predominately a water quality and fecal-oral hygiene concern. Washing of hands and foods will contribute to not allowing the Norwalk-like viruses to spread. Sometimes you will hear this referred to as the Norovirus or the cruise ship virus.

The two products we recommend are Sani-Tyze and GS Restroom Cleaner. You can leave the Sani-Tyze to air dry, but the GS Restroom Cleaner must be rinsed well. If you have any hard water spots, the acid in the GS Restroom Cleaner will take them off.

There is no difference. These terms are interchangeable. No one is better than the other because they all mean the same thing. Only a person's preference for a term would make one product more acceptable. It does not make that product more or less effective than the others however.

Spartan has Bed Bug & Lice Killer in an aerosol. Reach for this when you have a lice issue. 

Nothing. Scabies is a larger organism that requires a pesticide. None of Spartan's pesticides are labeled to kill scabies.

No! Steriphene II is a surface disinfectant only. It should not be used to spray in the air. First, it is irritating if breathed in, so don't help it along. Second, you cannot disinfect the air because it is a constantly changing thing. Open a door, or walk through the room and the air molecules move, exchange places and bring new ones in.

You will get some air freshening result from using Steriphene II because the odors caused by germs will be eliminated. And there are two different fragrance options to choose from: Spring Breeze and Clean and Fresh.

When used according to label directions, most of the killing power of the disinfectant or bowl cleaner will be used up killing microorganisms on the surfaces you are cleaning. What little may be still active will quickly be used up by the mass of organic material in the septic system itself.

If your septic system needs a boost for better production, look to our line of bioaugmentation products. Consume LIQ and Consume POW are excellent choices to boost the bio activity in your septic system.

Sanitizers and disinfectants are tested to be effective at room temperature. Specifically 70-72 degrees Fahrenheit is typical. You do not need to use hot water to make it work better.  In fact, too hot water can make it harder to keep the surface wet for the full disinfection time.

For sanitizing toys use Sani-T-10 or Sani-T-10 Plus, diluted at 1/4 ounce per gallon of water. You can spray or dunk the toys in the solution, then allow to air dry. Ready to use Sani-Tyze is also an option. There is no need to rinse before giving the toys back to the children.  Make up fresh solution each day.

When you dilute disinfectant to ready to use strength, it is best if it is used the same day, but in a trigger sprayer, you could go up to a week. A bucket of RTU disinfectant should always be used the day it is made up.

The date on the bottle is the manufactured date. This date is put on all Spartan products, not just disinfectants. With disinfectants, the recommendation is to use it within one year of the date of manufacture.

No. Do not mix disinfectants with anything but water. It is against federal law to use a disinfectant in any way other than how it is described on the label. You might deactivate the active ingredient in the disinfectant with what you mix into it. There is no way of knowing that.

Disinfectants are natural deodorizers because they kill the germs that cause the odor. The added fragrance in many disinfectants will also give you an added pleasant fragrance bonus. You really do not need the Airlift product. If you still feel you want added fragrance, use the Airlift separately.

Halt and TB-Cide Quat ready to use spray disinfectant kills parvo.

Chlorinated Degreaser and a pressure sprayer make a good combination to clean a stucco wall generally, and will bleach away the mold stains. Try a 6 ounce per gallon solution to start.

The two products generally used in locker rooms are Foamy Q & A or CDC-10.  If you have hard water or rust issues, Foamy Q & A is your best choice, at least some of the time, depending on how heavy the accumulation is and how quickly it builds up.  Otherwise, or on most days, the alkaline CDC-10 will clean and disinfect your locker room effectively.

Both can be applied with a foam gun such as the 481 Foam Gun we stock.  Agitation with a scrub brush after a few minutes dwell time is always a good idea, followed by a thorough rinse with clear water.

Both could be used on the urinals and toilets, again asking "Is there hard water or rust?"

In the Clean On the Go (COG) line we have #7 Acid Bath and Shower and #14 Foamy Bath and Shower.  When you just want to clean, these are economical choices to clean the whole locker room, including the floor.  Neither is a disinfectant.  They could be dispensed with the COG Foamer.

For routine disinfection of the locker room floor, if you did not choose CDC-10, one of our many neutral pH disinfectants, like GS Neutral Disinfectant or HDQ Neutral Disinfectant, could be chosen.  The slate floors could be cleaned with any of these products.

Wood benches in a locker room are, presumably, sealed such that water based cleaners will not hurt them.  If that is the case, GS Neutral or HDQ Neutral could both be used to clean and disinfect them.

There are times when you just want to do a good deep cleaning of the entire room, leaving disinfecting as a last step as you end the process. This would happen periodically as you observe that the routine daily cleaning isn't quite getting the job done.  Then choosing a cleaner up to the task, such as Tough On Grease or Green Solutions Industrial, can get you back to really clean surfaces.  Once cleaned, you could disinfect the whole room with one of our many neutral pH disinfectants, like GS Neutral or HDQ Neutral.

Spartan's Waterfree Urinal Cleaner does not breakdown or affect the barrier material used in water free urinals.

To remove hard water, you will need an acid cleaner. BioRenewables Restroom Cleaner, Foamy Q & A or M*95 are good choices. Apply to the surface and agitate, then rinse very well with lots of fresh water. You do not want to leave the acid on the steel surface very long. It is better to leave it too short a time and have to reapply to get remaining hard water deposits than to corrode or etch the steel.

Heavily used restrooms will challenge a floor mat more than a low use restroom. On average, you can expect to have a urinal floor mat last 2-3 weeks. If it appears soiled, full or otherwise used up, it should be replaced regardless of how short a time it may have been on the floor.

You will often find hard water at the campground, so using an acid product for cleanup is the best. The products you can use include Foamy Q & A, Clean By Peroxy, M*95 and GS Restroom Cleaner. Be sure to rinse all surfaces well, especially chrome or other metal parts.

Acids are needed to react with lime scale. Typically you can use Foamy Q & A, M*95, MLD, GS Restroom Cleaner or High Acid Cleaner. On the vitreous china of urinals and commodes you may use Germicidal Bowl Cleanse.

If you don't want to risk etching the grout, you will want to use an alkaline cleaner like CDC-10. CDC-10 will effectively clean the body oils and soap scum so often found on showers and tubs. CDC-10 will not etch grout, but it also will not remove hard water or rust.

Orange Tough 15 is best suited to this task. Once you have removed as much of the actual tape as possible, the Orange Tough 15 formula will work at dissolving the adhesive. Once the tape and adhesive are gone, you will want to wash the mirror with any of Spartan's glass cleaners to remove any of the residue from Orange Tough.

SparCling is good for this. The acid will dissolve the uric salt and the thick clinging formula helps the SparCling to stay put long enough to do the job. Then treat the urinal weekly with Consume Drop-in-a-Drain to keep the pipes running freely.

You can do it either way. It would depend on whether you wanted to clean and disinfect or merely clean. To get the full disinfection benefits, you should use NABC full strength. You can dilute it up to 1:10 to use it as a nice fragranced neutral cleaner in the restroom.

No, Foamy Q & A will not damage frosted glass. As always, you should rinse the surface thoroughly with water and not let the chemical dry on the surface.

SparCHLOR and PAA Sanitizer are approved. See each informative bulletins and the product labels for directions on this application.

Your best option for a ready to use quick clean up and sanitizing for lunchroom tables is Sani-Tyze RTU.

Generally the High Acid Cleaner FP typically works in this application.  In most instances, we recommend 5 gallons, per 150 gallons of water.    Circulation time of 45 minutes to 1 hour minimum.

An alternative cleaning treatment is to use 5 gallons of SparClean Delimer with 3 quarts of Foam Additive FP and they let the wash tank run its normal “cleaning mode”.

No, metaquat is a better choice for D1; sanitizer always requiring a rinse. After cleaning the surface, you must rinse the surface with clear water. 

In kitchens and cafeterias with grouted floors and food spills, SparClean Sure Step is a great choice to get the grout clean and leave the floor less slippery.  LFC Low Foam Chlorinated Degreaser and Peroxy Protein Remover, Cleaner and Whitener are also good choices.

Try soaking the baking sheets in a solution of SNB-130 diluted at 3-4 ounces per gallon, then washing normally.

When you are sanitizing a surface with Sani-Tyze, you spray the surface and allow it to air dry.

The two products most often used are SNB-130 and SC-200. With SC-200 you must be sure the hood is not made of aluminum.

Freezer Cleaner FP diluted at 3:1 (3 parts Freezer Cleaner to 1 part water) freezes at -20 degrees F.   Diluted two parts Freezer Cleaner to one part water will take you down to -10 degrees F.   Diluted 1:1 you can go down to just 0 degrees F.

No. All food should be put away or covered up before cleaning and sanitizing an area.

Yes. SparCHLOR 2 is chlorine based and PAA Sanitizer is peracetic acid based. Both are acceptable in organic food processing.

High Acid Cleaner is a good choice for cleaning both cleaning the surfaces and removing any calcium build up from the cream or milk. Rinse the machine with clear water, then sanitize it with Sani-T-10 Plus or Acid Sanitizer FP.

Caustic Cleaner FP or High Performance Alkaline FP are the products to use.

There are several choices for cleaning a popcorn machine. They include DFP-32, Inspector's Choice and Chlorinated Degreaser. Don't forget to rinse and sanitize following the cleanup. Sani-T-10 Plus is one of your sanitizer options.

The minimum and maximum temperatures you can use with Food Grade Lube is 50 degrees F. to 100 degrees F.

Look for neutral pH products that won't leave a film. For general cleaning Damp Mop would be fine. Fast and Easy would also be good. If this is a food contact counter top, Sani-Tyze or Sani-T-10 would be good choices. If not for food contact, Hepacide Quat II or DMQ would be fine for disinfecting.

As a cleaner, High Acid Cleaner FP can be used to remove milkstones and hard water build up. Acid Sanitizer FP can be used both to sanitize and remove light milkstone build-up.

Yes, parts for the 481 foam gun are available.  See the table below for part number

Once empty, the HDPE blow molded bottle inside a steel cage of the 330 and 275 tote can be rinsed and made ready for recycling. Along with our drums, which are also made of easily recyclable HDPE plastic, you can offer these to your local recycling facility.

If they cannot take them for some reason, you can look at commercial recycling companies. You can look up one close to you on the recyclers co-op website. The address is below. You can just click on "Find A Member" and select your state and the local companies will be listed. There may be a small charge for their services.

www.reusablepackaging.org/find-a-member/

With the exception of DA-70, all Spartan strippers are non-ammoniated.

The only stripper Spartan makes that specifically mentions that it is linoleum safe is DA-70.

Aerosol Shineline Baseboard Stripper will do a nice job of this because it will gel and cling to the vertical surface. If the kick plate is made of an exotic metal, you should verify in as inconspicuous a place as possible that the higher alkalinity of Baseboard Stripper will not discolor it. Regardless, the kick plate should be well rinsed with clear water after the dissolved finish and stripper have been removed.

With asbestos two things are important to remember. You cannot do any scrubbing procedures, whether stripping, washing or buffing, unless the floor is either kept wet or has a coating on it.

To strip, you can use your normal stripper and pad. You must simply keep the floor wet at all times when scrubbing. This will keep any possible asbestos particles from becoming airborne.

For daily washing or periodic buffing, you may do these operations as you would on any other floor as long as there are sufficient coats of sealer and finish on the floor that you are never really touching the asbestos tile, only the coating.

The two strippers with the lowest odor in our line are Green Solutions Neutral Floor Finish Remover and L. O. E. Stripper.

With strippers, you will need 1 gallon of ready to use stripper to strip 100 square feet, on average. So it depends how you dilute the concentrate how many square feet one gallon of concentrated stripper will strip.

Mixed at 1:4, you take one gallon stripper plus four gallons water to make five gallons of RTU stripper. One gallon of RTU stripper does 100 square feet, so five gallons would strip 5 * 100, or 500 square feet. Therefore one gallon of concentrated stripper will strip 500 square feet when diluted 1:4.

Mixed at 1:10, you would make eleven RTU gallons of stripper, times 100 square feet per RTU gallon of stripper which equals 1100 square feet stripped from one gallon of concentrated stripper when mixed at 1:10.

Anything that will take ink off floor finish will damage the finish in the process. To take ink up, you could try Contempo Paint, Oil, Grease, Tar, and Ink, Tough Duty, Graffiti Remover SAC or just strip the spot on the floor.

Bamboo floors do well with water based coatings like AquaSport Wood Floor Finish or AquaSport 2-Part Wood Floor Finish. Once sealed, dust mop the floor frequently with dust mops treated with Dust Mop/Dust Cloth Treatment Cleaner.

Removing old chewing gum from concrete can be difficult. Obviously if one method doesn't work, try another.

The products:

• Orange Tough 90
• Orange Tough 40
• Graffiti Remover
• Oven and Grill

10 minute contact, followed by steam heated pressure washer

The Tools:

In addition to the above suggestion to use a steam cleaner

• Plastic scraper
• Wire brush
• Pressure washer (without heat)

For the stain after the gum is removed try Chlorinated Degreaser.

For routine cleaning, mild cleaners like Damp Mop, Xcelente or Green Solutions All Purpose Cleaner will remove soil without leaving a film.  For deeper cleaning you can step up to Shineline Multi Surface Cleaner or Green Solutions Industrial.  When you need to remove hard water deposits and rust or brighten grout, you would choose an acid product like Foamy Q & A or M*95 followed by lots of fresh water rinsing.

To clean the concrete floor in a movie theater, use either Consume Micro Muscle, Tough on Grease, Green Solutions Industrial or BH-38. All will do an excellent job.

The options with marble are to maintain it with no coating - leaving it natural - or putting a coating on it and treating it like any other floor. Well maintained, shiny marble will not hold a finish well so you may want to choose keeping it smooth and shiny. Keep it clean with Marble Mop. Marble that is dull and scratched may take a coating and hold it. The one to try is TerraGlaze. Keep it clean with frequent dust mopping and damp mopping with Damp Mop. When it comes time to strip, never use anything stronger than Rinse Free Strip.

The Super Spraybuff formula has solvent in it along with the cleaners. If you have black marks, that is when you would choose the Super Spraybuff. If all you need to do is clean and shine the floor, regular Spraybuff is all you need. Remember you should always dust mop a floor before you spray buff it.

Damp Mop is the lead product for this purpose. Others you can try are Xcelente, Shineline Floor Prep, Clean By Peroxy and Green Solutions All Purpose Cleaner.

In general, if the floor surface is properly prepared, the water based gym finishes will be fine on top of oil modified gym finishes. Proper preparation includes dry screening the surface to knock all the gloss off and tacking the dust. The floor should be clean, dry, and dull. Follow all label and informative bulletin directions for preparation and installation of the water based gym finish of choice whether it is the one part or two part product.

To use a product on the alkaline (pH > 7) side, choose Chlorinated Degreaser.

To use a product on the acidic (pH < 7) side, choose M*95.

Never use these together because bleach and acid make a deadly combination.

Both will clean and whiten your grout. With either product make sure to protect yourself and the surrounding surfaces from stray chemical and rinse well after the cleaning process.

Linoleum is very sensitive to chemicals and chances are nothing may be done to fix the floor. It is probably a reaction to alkalinity in cleaners used over time. Our recommendation for caring for linoleum floors is to coat them with 2 to 3 coats of Millennia Bright Dura Gloss, keep it clean with Damp Mop, and use top scrub and recoat with Shineline Multi Surface Cleaner and never strip the floor down.

You could experiment with a little bleach in an inconspicuous spot to see if it will help, but I expect it will not.

The product in our line targeted for ESD flooring is N/C No Charge Static Dissipative Floor Cleaner. If you do not have this immediately available, you can choose one of our neutral quat based disinfectants. Examples include DMQ, GS Neutral Disinfectant Cleaner and HDQ Neutral.

The recommended dilution for Strategic Cleaner as a tacking solution is 1:6 when tacking a screened wood floor.

The important thing in preparing the floor for recoat is results, not method. You are looking for a uniformly dull surface with no shiny spots and no dust particles left on the surface. If you can achieve this with a maroon pad, that's fine. Do not shortcut the preparation process. You will have adhesion failure if you do.

On average, and depending on local humidity and temperature, coats will dry in 30-40 minutes. It is best to allow the floor to cure for 48-72 hours before buffing.

For tacking sanded wood floors, the estimated coverage rate is 10,000 square feet per gallon. Be sure to read the informative bulletin to get the full description of the acceptable procedure for use. You must keep tacking the floor until you get no particulate left or the coating will have the dust particles in it.

Generally Bounce Back can be used on any finished floor to enhance gloss and fill in fine scratches. It can also be used on uncoated marble floors as a very light dressing. Dilute Bounce Back according to label directions and mop it onto a clean floor. Allow it to dry, then buff with a white polishing pad. The results will be a shinier floor that will last longer.

You need our PROmatte floor finish. I recommend two or three thin coats only. This will offer protection to the floor and leave very little glare. Do not buff this finish or it will pick up gloss.

With the stir stick provided and wearing your gloves and goggles, stir part A into a circle vortex, then pour in part B and stir for 30 seconds. Let the mixed finish rest for 10 minutes. The activated finish has a pot life of 24 hours.

For the initial clean up, scrub with Damp Mop using a single disk (175 rpm) machine and a blue or green pad. After picking up cleaning solution, apply 2-3 coats of iShine for a high gloss and 2-3 coats of Millennia Bright Dura Prime for a low gloss.

To maintain the floor, dust mop frequently, then damp mop using Damp Mop. Burnish as desired to achieve the appropriate appearance.

Never strip linoleum or Marmoleum. Instead, deep scrub with Shineline Multi Surface Cleaner and a blue or green pad. Rinse and reapply 1-2 coats of the iShine or Dura Prime.

New tiles have a protective coating put on them at the factory to protect the tile during production and installation. This coating, if left in place, will give you adhesion problems with the sealer and finish you want to put down for the floor's permanent care program.

To strip the factory seal, a light dilution of stripper, 1:10, should do it. Dilute your stripper of choice and apply it to the floor. Allow it to dwell for ten minutes and scrub as normal for stripping. Pick up the stripper solution, rinse and allow the floor to dry. Now the floor is ready for you to apply the sealer and finish you have chosen to protect the floor and match the appearance and maintenance profile the owner wants.

Betadine is very hard to remove from floors. The best option is the Clothesline Fresh Iodine & Betadine Remover. You can also try Graffiti Remover SAC, Contempo H2O2, Tough Duty NB and SD-20 aerosol, but you may find that these will not take out the stain completely.

Upper Limits, White Sun, Sunny-Side, iShine, On an' On, TrendSetter, and N/C No Charge Static Dissipative Floor Finish are all UL approved for slip resistance.

Too low a floor temperature slows down the chemical reaction of the polymers making long polymer chains, and a nice unified coating. A minimum floor temperature of 60 degrees F. is required for proper film formation. Of course, too high a temperature will cause the finish to dry or evaporate too quickly, preventing proper leveling or film formation. It is best to keep the temperatures moderate, in the 70's or 80's, if possible.

Yes, a clear coat of regular floor finish can be used over Glossy Black floor finish. You can choose whatever satisfies the demands of the care routine. For instance, Sunny Side would make an easy care, high gloss coating over the top. If you wanted a more buffable finish, you could use one of those.

Once you have stripped out a floor, you have to build the sealer coats (usually two) then add finish coats until you reach a minimum of 100% solids. You will need to know how many square feet of floor you are coating and the solids of your seal and finish.

The first coat of sealer will coat approximately 1500 square feet per gallon. Take your total square footage to coat and divide by 1500. That is the number of gallons needed for the first sealer coat.

The second sealer coat will cover approximately 2100 square feet per gallon. Again, take your total square footage and divide by 2100. This is the number of gallons you will need for the second sealer coat.

After this, all coats should, on average, require 2500-3000 square feet per gallon. Following the formula above, divide your total square footage by 2500 to get the number of gallons needed per coat of finish. Multiply by the number of coats needed to reach 100% solids.

Shineline Seal, in no more than two very thin coats, should do a fine job sealing the rubber tire tiles. Keep it clean by frequent dust mopping and clean with a neutral cleaner like Damp Mop or DMQ.

Depending on the weather conditions and exposure, the Exterior Waterproofer coating will last 2-6 months before needing to be reapplied.

New Generation 100 Epoxy coating can be used on a concrete freezer floor provided you warm the floor up to 50 degrees F. to install the coating. The floor should be prepared like any concrete floor as described in the informative bulletin for New Generation 100. Once the coating has cured, you can load in the racks, chill down the freezer and put it back into use. Since NG 100 is slippery when wet, you might consider making a non-skid surface by adding an aggregate to the coating before it cures.

Concrete Seal should be left until the following day for the seal to cure and all the volatile components to work themselves out of the floor. Straight Seal is ready for foot traffic in an hour or two. To load heavy items onto the floor, you would do best to wait until the next day for the coating to harden.

The surface temperature must be at least 40 degrees Fahrenheit.

No. You cannot add color to Straight Seal. You can try painting the concrete with the color of your choice, then doing a test patch to see if the Straight Seal will be compatible with the paint as a top coat.

To prepare a previously sealed New Generation 100 floor, clean it well with a degreaser, then screen it to rough it up and knock off all gloss. Tack the dust and particles up and let dry. The floor is now ready to recoat with New Generation 100.

You will get 100-200 square feet per gallon on average. Of course, you must evaluate your results and reapply if you do not get the etch you need.

A cured floor of New Generation 100 will not have a problem with the radiant heat coming from the floor. However, while installing and curing the floor coating, the radiant heat should be turned off.

No, there are no UV inhibitors in the New Generation products. Since they are for indoor use only, it wasn't deemed necessary. If you have areas that routinely get sunlight, like in a loading dock, you will notice a degree of UV discoloration over time.

No, the pro-weave roller is for putting down thinner coatings. For New Generation 100, you need a notched-edge gauge rake to leave a heavy coat of New Generation 100. The pro-weave roller would stir air into the thicker coating of NG-100 and not spread it evenly. If you are careful with the gauge rake, you may not need the porcupine roller. However, if you see bubbles in the coating as you have spread it out, you can use the porcupine roller to break them before the coating sets.

Wet the floor with water only and scrub it with a stiff deck brush or power wash it. You need to loosen the reacted salts from the etching process.

Concrete Prep is your answer to cleaning up cement trucks after delivery of a load. It has hydrochloric acid to quickly react with the cement and inhibitors to protect metal. You can use it as is, or dilute 1:1 with water for more economy. Sell this one in 55 gallon drums, 4 to a pallet!

NG 100 is resistant to some acids more than to others. For instance, it has excellent resistance to battery acid (30% Sulfuric acid), but very poor against concentrated Sulfuric. Tests show NG 100 is resistant to the following list of acids: Hydrochloric 50%, Nitric 25%, Sulfuric 50%, Phosphoric 50%, Acetic 10%, Lactic 10%, Citric 10% and Battery acid (30% Sulfuric).

No, NG 100 is not slippery when it is dry. Like all floor coatings made by Spartan, it meets or exceeds the ASTM standard for slip coefficient. Wet is another story. NG 100 is slippery when wet.

If you have an area where the floor is likely to be wet from time to time, you may wish to add an aggregate such as alumina, sand or poly beads to the top coat of NG 100 while you are laying it. Be sure to choose a particle size large enough to poke through the thickness of the NG 100 layer you are putting down. You can read all about it in the Informative Bulletin called "Producing a Skid Resistant Surface Using New Generation 100".

In all cases, the minimum acceptable temperature to put down a concrete seal is 55 degrees F. The maximum temperature is 95 degrees F. The list of Spartan concrete seals are Concrete Seal, Straight Seal, New Generation 100.

Concrete Seal can be used as a curing membrane, and can be put on concrete as soon as it is hard enough to walk on. Concrete Seal allows moisture to pass through, but slows it down. The longer this process takes, the stronger the concrete is.

The New Generation 100 epoxy products and Straight Seal must not be used until all the moisture has come out of the concrete and it is fully cured. This will take from 30 to 90 days, on average.

To test whether the moisture is all out, tape down heavy plastic, 12-18" square, on all four sides in several places around the concrete to be coated. Wait 24 hours. Look on the back of the plastic for condensation or for a darkening of the concrete. Either is an indication that moisture is still coming out of the concrete and you must wait longer before using the New Generation 100 products or Straight Seal.

Concrete that is outside or is inside and routinely gets wet only has two options from Spartan - these are Concrete Seal and Exterior Water proofer. Concrete Seal is a penetrating seal can get wet and still give good traction.  Exterior Water proofer will cause the water to bead up rather than soak into the concrete.

Yes, Graffiti Remover SAC is safe on the following surfaces:

Glazed tile, stainless steel, desk tips, fiberglass, metal, marble, chrome, aluminum, brass, glass, Formica, Lexan and porcelain.

Choose Sign Off or BioRenewables Glass Cleaner quarts for ready to use options. In concentrates you can choose between Clean on the Go Super Concentrated Glass and Hard Surface Cleaner, Green Solutions Glass Cleaner or BioRenewables Glass Cleaner concentrate.

Computer screens are not uniform any longer. The days of glass CRT terminals is long gone. To learn how your monitor should be cleaned, refer to the operating manual that came with it. If you can use a water based cleaner on it, Sani-Tyze should be fine. If it says to never use water based cleaners, or only clean with a dry cloth, it is best to heed that warning.

All Spartan glass cleaners are water based and will freeze at about the same point as plain water. You can mix ready to use Glass Cleaner 50/50 with isopropyl alcohol and reduce the freezing point to about 10 degrees F., but you will also have more flammability issues because of the alcohol.

You need acid to remove hard water spots. First look at the frame the window is held in. If it is aluminum or other soft metal, you will want to be careful when following the procedure that follows:

Choose one of Spartan's acid product, such as Concentrated Window Cleaner or one of the other acid products like Foamy Q & A, GS Restroom Cleaner, M*95 and High Acid Cleaner. Apply the acid to the glass with a cloth. Be sure to wear proper protective equipment to keep you safe from contacting the acid directly.

Rinse the glass and frame completely. Consider drying the glass to prevent more water from drying on the glass.

Both Concentrated Window Cleaner and Clean By Peroxy are acidic and designed to clean glass without streaking.

Orange Tough 15 will remove sticker glue. Allow it to set a few minutes, then agitate the area. Wash the Orange Tough 15 residue away with a mild cleaner.

It can be messy, so spread a drop cloth on the floor under the chandelier before you start. Make sure the light is switched off before you start, too. Liberally spray the chandelier crystals with Fast and Easy, BioRenewables RTU Glass Cleaner or Sign Off. You let it drip dry onto the drop cloth.

It depends on whether the blood has dried or not. If the blood is still wet, use Clothesline Fresh spotter S1 All Purpose Spotter. If the blood has had time to dry, then you will want to use Clothesline Fresh spotter S3 Rust and Iron.

Your best option to treat hair dye stains on towels is Clothesline Fresh Iodine & Betadine Remover. Spot with this, then launder as normal with the rest of your towels.

Clothesline Fresh Laundry Detergent #3, Clothesline Fresh No Dye - No Fragrance Laundry Detergent #13 and Clothesline Fresh Detergent EP #18 are safe to use on fire retardant clothing. These products will not damage the properties that make the garments fire resistant.

Plus 5 is the first choice for an upholstery shampoo. You can also try Contempo V, CX3 BioAssist and Clean By Peroxy. In all cases you must test an inconspicuous spot on the fabric before doing the whole cleaning job.

The label for aerosol Carpet Stain Remover has instructions for cleaning wool carpeting including a reminder to spot check in an inconspicuous spot for color fastness. The same precaution should be used for wool upholstery. If it passes the test, you should be able to use Carpet Stain Remover on the wool upholstery. Use it sparingly until you know how that particular fabric will respond.

First of all, you must first check that any chemical you use is safe on that particular upholstery fabric. Test a small amount on some hidden or inconspicuous place to see that no damage is done by the chemical itself. Once satisfied, you can go ahead with attempting to remove the red wine stain.

There are two solutions you can try. The first is Contempo H2O2 carpet spotter in the RTU quarts. The other option is the Red Dye spotter from the Contempo Spotting kit. Liberally apply the chosen spotter to the stain, then dab at the stain's edges with a white cloth, working towards the center of the stain. Repeat as necessary.

You can use the Clothesline Fresh Rust and Iron Remover S3 or the Rust Solution from the Contempo Spotting Kit. Just apply the Rust Remover Solution and watch the rust disappear. After treatment, launder the fabric as usual before putting it back into use.

Outdoor use for SpartaGard is not recommended.

You can try the Paint, Oil, Grease, Tar and Ink spotter on the dried paint. Note, it may not be effective depending on the paint.

It's not a for sure thing, skunk smell being very difficult to deal with. Try cleaning the carpet with CX3 BioAssist, then putting 4-6 ounces of Airlift Smoke and Odor Eliminator per gallon of the rinse water. Allow the carpet to dry, but also get fresh air into the room as much as possible. Good luck.

Yes, you can use Airlift when cleaning carpets. It is best to prespray the carpet with your cleaner of choice using a pump up sprayer, then mix 2-4 ounces of Airlift into the clear water in the extractor. This will leave a nice refreshing scent behind.

CX3 BioAssist is not a disinfectant. It does not kill anything. The Consume microorganisms in CX3 BioAssist eat residual organic material left in your carpet.

You can treat pet odors and stains either with bacterial products or ones containing hydrogen peroxide. In our Consume line you can spot carpets with Consume or clean the whole carpet with CX3 BioAssist. Using hydrogen peroxide, you can spot with Contempo H2O2 or clean the entire carpet with Clean By Peroxy.

No Spartan carpet product uses optical brighteners any longer. They were removed from all formulas some time ago.

It doesn't matter whether you apply SpartaGard on wet or dry carpet. The more important thing is to make sure the carpet is clean first. That makes the most opportune time to apply SpartaGard right after you have cleaned the carpet, so most SpartaGard goes onto wet carpeting.

On any type of carpet, including wool carpet, you can use the Contempo Rust Solution in the Contempo Spotting Kit, or in the convenient refill bottles, to safely remove rust stains from carpet.

You could use one of the spotters, if it is a small job. The aerosol Carpet Stain Remover works well on oil. In the Contempo Spotting kit, the Paint, Oil, Grease, Tar and Ink solution will work. SD-20 aerosol would also take out oil spots. If this is a big area, you can try Xtraction II, but BH-38 will also be safe on carpet and get the motor oil out.

Iron deposits would be reddish, like a rust color. If that is the problem, you would want to use the Rust Solution from the Contempo Spotting Kit. For more traditional water spots, more whitish, you need an acid. The same Rust Solution would do it, or you could use Contempo H2O2, Contempo Tannin or Clean By Peroxy to correct this problem.

Orange Tough 15 is the easiest way. Spray the carpet with the Orange Tough 15 and allow it to set a few minutes. Blot at the adhesive with a white cloth, working from the edge toward the center. Once you have gotten all the adhesive up, you will want to get an extractor and rinse the carpet with clear water to flush out the d-Limonene residue from the Orange Tough 15.

First remove as much wax as possible by spraying it with the freezing action of Chewing Gum Remover aerosol. You may find vacuuming is a good way to remove all the small pieces you make by chipping and scraping the wax. Then get an iron and a lot of unprinted paper towels. Turn the iron on to its lowest setting. Place the paper towel over the wax and apply the iron to it. This will cause the wax to melt and be absorbed by the paper towel.

Keep moving to a fresh spot on the paper towel until no more transfer happens. It may be slow, but it's sure and on the lowest setting is safe for the carpet.

Yes, generally, is the short answer. The complete answer is you should test fabric you are unfamiliar with in an inconspicuous spot to make sure the color won't run or the fabric won't shrink or stretch in any way. Once the fabric has passed this test, you are clear to use the SpartaGard on the upholstery.

To use Green Solutions Carpet Cleaner as a bonnet cleaner, dilute it at 2 to 4 ounces per gallon of water. Conservatively you can expect to clean 250-300 square feet per gallon of diluted cleaner.

There are two Spartan products that will remove salt residue from carpeting: Clean By Peroxy and Contempo Tannin. Dilute your chosen product at 2 ounces per gallon of warm water, spray it on the carpet and allow it a short contact time, then extract with clear water and let dry. Repeat as necessary.

Orange Tough 15 will help to loosen gum from carpet. Once the gum is removed, the Orange Tough 15 should be flushed from the carpet with warm water and a white cloth, or with an extractor.

In addition to Bonnet and Traffic Lane Cleaner, the following carpet care products have directions for bonnet cleaning in their respective Informative Bulletins: Contempo V, Green Solutions Carpet Cleaner and SSE Prespray and Spotter.

SpartaGard is not appropriate for outdoor use as rain will wash away the product after a few exposures.

You can use Sani-Tyze RTU or Sani-T-10 mixed up in a trigger sprayer to control the static build up on carpet. Mix it at 1/2 ounce per gallon and mist it onto the carpet. There are no surfactants, builders, fragrances or dyes to worry about when you use Sani-T-10 to mist onto carpeting. Repeat as necessary.

Before using any chemical, vacuum as much of the toner out as you can.  Then the Paint, Oil, Grease, Tar and Ink Solution from the Contempo Spotting Kit will take care of toner. Directions are on the bottle.

Acids should never be used on galvanized steel. You can clean it with SNB-130. The silicates in the product will protect the coating.

Clean By Peroxy, BH-38 and Green Solutions Industrial Cleaner are all good choices for cleaning the algae, scum and other things along the water line off boats. You will enjoy launching the boat in the spring much more if it comes out clean from winter storage.

Acid is required to remove hard water or calcium deposits. Concrete Prep can be used for large jobs. For smaller jobs, one of the acid bowl cleaners could be used, like M*95 or MLD. You can experiment with the strength of the solution, from full strength to diluted 1:10 with water.

Green Solutions Industrial and BH-38 are both good choices for cleaning general soils off vinyl siding.

The two best products for removing soy based inks are Tough on Grease and Green Solutions Industrial Degreaser. Play with the dilution ratio until you find the best ratio for effective cleaning and economy.

SafeSpray LF (for Low Foam) is the product of choice here. SafeSpray LF is made for heated parts washers that agitate the solution onto the parts. It is multi metal safe, including aluminum. It is best when heated to 130 to 140 degrees F. For dip tanks operations, All Safe is our companion product to SafeSpray LF.

DC-13 was designed for use in the nuclear power industry. DC-13 is a halide free, non-corrosive cleaner designed to remove soil containing radioactive material. Effective hard and non-porous surface cleaner. Low sudsing. Does not interfere with the efficiency of evaporators in disposal of low level contaminants. May be used in automatic floor scrubbing equipment. Phosphate free. Biodegradable.

Consume Micro Muscle, Green Solutions Industrial Degreaser and Tough on Grease will all allow the oil to come out of solution if you set the used cleaning solution aside, like in a spare empty 55 gallon drum. After setting, the oil will come to the top and can be suctioned off for hazardous haul off, leaving the rest of the cleaning solution safe for pouring down the sanitary sewer.

Consume Micro Muscle is an excellent choice for this job. The surfactants will quickly and easily lift the greasy soil from the floor, leaving behind the Consume bugs to finish up the job.

Industrial Pathmaker is a no/low suds floor cleaner and should do a great job.

We currently offer two hand cleaners with grit. Grub Scrub is a thick liquid that is rinsed with water. BioRenewables Waterless Plus is, as the name implies, a waterless hand cleaner you can use anywhere. For information on these soaps, look on our website in the Products section.

Yes, it does a great job on printer's ink and all sorts of other tough soils. Reach for Grub Scrub when your hand cleaning needs are extreme and you have water at hand for rinsing.

No. Lite'n Foamy soaps are made very thin to work properly in the foaming chamber of the Lite'n Foamy dispenser. If you tried these especially thin soaps in regular bulk fill dispensers, they are likely to run out. Likewise, you cannot use regular soap in a Lite'n Foamy dispenser because the thicker soap will clog the foaming chamber. We offer wall mounted manually operated and touch free dispensers as well as a counter mount dispenser option for the Lite’n Foamy hand care line.

Lite'n Foamy will give you 7570 hand washings from a single gallon of soap.

You get 380 hand washes per gallon based on dispensing 10 ml per push using the Grub Scrub flat top gallon dispenser.

If you have water available, Grub Scrub is a good choice in a print shop. If you do not have water, BioRenewables Waterless Plus is a good option.

No nuts or dairy products are used in any Spartan hand cleaners.

Two great products for cleaning dumpsters and the area around them are Consume Eco-Lyzer and Orange Tough 40. Use Orange Tough 40 if you have extreme buildup of fats and grease. It will cut the grease and leave a fresh orange scent behind. Consume Eco-Lyzer will clean, disinfect and deodorize the dumpster and surrounding area. The unique formulation will kill off the odor causing bacteria leading to the usual dumpster stench, then replace them with our own specially selected strains of microorganisms that will work quickly and efficiently to keep eating away the unwanted organic material.

BH-38 is used to removed the sooty smoke residue following a fire. Base the dilution ratio on how dirty the surface is, probably somewhere in the medium to medium heavy soil range. You can mix up to 4 ounces of Airlift Smoke and Odor Eliminator per diluted gallon of BH-38 to help eliminate the lingering smoky smell. You could also mix the Smoke and Odor into the rinse water, if you prefer.

Change to using Consume Micro Muscle as the cleaner. The microorganisms will work at controlling the odor that comes from the decaying oil washed off of the cars. Dilute the Micro Muscle at 1-2 ounces per gallon. By making this change you will no longer need to use a deodorant to mask the odor.

You won't hurt anything by continuing to use Consume FWD into the cold weather season. Biological activity slows down with the coming of cold temperatures. Odors tend to diminish as well, so the need for the Consume FWD lessens. On the positive side, it gives you a great jump start when the weather warms up.

Consume POW and Consume LIQ are the products of choice for use in wastewater treatment systems. These products will provide the microorganisms needed to treat the suspended organic solids in the wastewater.

Mix Consume Eco-Lyzer at 6 ounces to a gallon of water and spray it on the dirt. You can work it in a bit, if you like. Repeat as necessary.

You can set up an Autodose unit to spray the trash chute on a predetermined schedule. For this you will want to use full strength Consume Eco-Lyzer or Consume Eco-Lyzer that you have prediluted up to 1:10 for more economy. Weaker than this and you will wake up the Consume bugs too soon. For a quick hit, you can manually treat the trash chute with a diluted solution of 2-6 ounces of Consume Eco-Lyzer diluted in a gallon of water put in a pump up sprayer. You will want to use the entire amount you mixed up right away.

Consume FWD is the right product for keeping odors in check in an outhouse. Humans are just mammals, too, and unlike a septic tank which will receive food scraps and cleaners along with the human waste, the outhouse pit just gets the waste.

Once diluted for use, the Consume products should be used that same day. The one exception is Consume Eco-Lyzer, when mixed no weaker than 1:10, is still able to be stored indefinitely.

For powdered versions of Consume (POW, FWD, Drop-in-a-Drain) it takes 30-45 minutes for the little guys to wake up and start working. The liquid products (Consume, LIQ, Eco-Lyzer, Micro Muscle) it takes about 4 hours for maximum activity.

Yes, indeed! This is one of its primary purposes! The microorganisms in Consume will eat away the organic material the lurks in floor drains slowing them down and causing the sour odor. The fresh vanilla fragrance in Consume will keep the drain trap smelling nice, too. It is a great combination.

The dye in Consume will turn brown over time, but the bugs are still sleeping, waiting for a reason to wake up and go to work. The brown Consume is still good to use.

Dilute Consume LIQ between 1:10 and 1:20 or Consume Eco-Lyzer at 6 ounces per gallon and apply liberally over the sand in the sand box. Allow it to set overnight. Hose it thoroughly with clear water the next day before anyone is allowed to use the sand box. Repeat the next night, if necessary.

If you are comfortable, they will be comfortable. The acceptable temperature range is 40-115 degrees F. Optimum is between 85-90 degrees F.

Consume LIQ or Consume POW are the proper products for treating grease traps. Many communities ban the use of products with surfactants in them. Regular Consume has surfactants is it, so is not appropriate for grease traps.

Remember to consider using the AutoDose metering system with Consume LIQ to make treating the grease trap easy. Just set it and check the level of Consume LIQ in the pail or drum from time to time.

Patented Consume Eco-Lyzer is perfect for this job. It is a cleaner to remove soils, a disinfectant to kill off odor causing bacteria, and it is Consume critters to efficiently eat away any residual organic material.

Consume Eco-Lyzer is an excellent choice. This three in one, patented product cleans away soils, kills odor causing microorganisms and lays down the Consume microorganisms for a mopping up action that works without odors. HDQ neutral can also be an effective agent to cut down on the odor in a dog kennel.

Yes! Never use an acid on marble unless you are trying to etch it. Clean By Peroxy has a pH around 2. Even in a diluted solution, this product can etch marble and other acid sensitive surfaces. Choose another product like Marble Mop, Green Solutions All Purpose Cleaner or Damp Mop.

First test the ceiling tile to make sure it is tolerant of getting wet. Once the tile passes this test, choose mild cleaners like Clean By Peroxy, Green Solutions Industrial or BH-38.

Graffiti Remover SAC and a 3M no scratch pad will effectively take hockey puck marks off Plexiglas© without damaging the Plexiglas©.

Yes, you can generally mix cleaning chemicals with sea water with no problem. The exceptions are glass cleaners and floor cleaners. For these applications you are likely to leave a residue if you use sea water.

To clean the accumulated dust and dirt from air conditioner coils without damaging the aluminum, you can use Clean on the Go Foamy Bath and Restroom Cleaner or CDC-10 if you want a foaming cleaner. You could also use a non-foaming cleaner like Green Solutions Industrial Cleaner or Tough On Grease.

The numbers on the bottom of the aerosol can are the date of manufacture. It is in the format of MMDDY(batch). If the aerosol in question were the second batch made on February 3rd, 2016, the code would read 02036B.

In computer rooms, wetness, dust and static charges are important. Often times, there are cables running under an elevated floor. It would be bad to have liquid dripping down on these cables. If this is the case, make sure your mop is well wrung out before cleaning the floor. Likewise, in wiping down the exterior housing of computer equipment, make sure you do not let liquid run inside the casing.

If you have a regular floor in a computer room, N/C No Charge Static Dissipative Floor Finish will help keep static from building up. 2 or 3 coats will keep the floor looking good and safer around computers and other electronic equipment.

N/C No Charge Cleaner is a good product for use in cleaning computer rooms because it will help to knock down any static build up. It can be used on any water safe surface including on N/C No Charge Static Dissipative Floor Finish. Follow the above rules for not allowing too much liquid to run.

Dust can build up in small crevices in computers, in the fans and on the chips and devices inside the computers. This can lead to overheating and shorter life. When cleaning a computer room, choose lint free towels and mops for all cleaning tasks.

Before cleaning any computer monitor, check the manufacturer's directions for cleaning. Some monitors should not be cleaned with water based products. Check first before you ruin a monitor. Ready to use Sign Off is good for cleaning glass, mirrors, photocopier platens and monitors that can get wet for cleaning.

The dielectric Breakdown Voltage is 41.0 kV by ASTM using test method D-877-87.

Spartan Chemical does not use any gluten by-products or derivatives in any of its products.

Spartan Chemical does not use any peanut by-products or derivatives in any of its products.

No. Marble is sensitive to acids and can be quickly ruined. SparCreme has an acidic pH of 2.3. Add in the grit and you can very quickly etch and scratch marble.

Consume Eco-Lyzer, Green Solutions All Purpose Cleaner or Green Solutions Industrial Cleaner are all good choices to clean up spilled soft drinks on concrete stadium floors and stairways.

Whether human or animal, if chemical exposure happens with any Spartan Chemical product, you should call the emergency medical number listed on the Safety Data sheet. This service is available 24 hours a day and is free of charge to you. Their staff is medically trained and have all our SDS so they can offer sound advice on what to do.

With all the different manufacturers out there and all the coatings that are used now, you must first test in a small corner to determine that no damage is done to the board surface. Choose one of the cleaners below and put a little in a corner and wipe it clean and dry. Try to put a mark on the board with a dry erase marker to see if it will take the mark then try to erase the mark. If it passes both of these tests, go ahead and clean the entire board.

You can test the dry erase boards with SD-20 aerosol, Tough Duty NB, Graffiti Remover SAC and Steriphene II.

You must be careful not to breathe in bird dropping dust. Therefore, the first thing to do is saturate the droppings with either HDQ Neutral or Super HDQ Neutral to both keep the dust down and start to kill any microorganisms present. These two disinfectant carry a wide range of kill claims, many having to do with animals. One claim in particular relates to birds - avian polyomavirus.

The worker should be properly protected so that the bird droppings do not get on their skin or into any mucous openings such as eyes, nose or mouth.

Once the droppings have been saturated with the disinfectant, scoop up the wet droppings and place them into a trash bag. Repeat wetting the bird droppings and scooping into the trash bag until all of it is removed. Clean the surface with any cleaner, then do a final disinfection of the surface with HDQ Neutral or Super HDQ Neutral.

Yes! Clean By Peroxy at 1-2 ounces per gallon makes a very good floor finish cleaner.

Clean By Peroxy can be used on metal surfaces as long as the contact time is short and the metal is rinsed after cleaning. Aluminum should not be cleaned with Clean By Peroxy.